Part of the beauty of the fashion industry is the route that people have taken to get there. There are not two stories alike. Sure most designers have had training in some form, and have gained practical experience in a work environment whether through an internship or an entry level job yet everyone's course has surely differed.
For Francoise Olivas, her entrance to the fashion world began a little later in life. She originally went to FIT to become an art director, and worked in advertising for about ten years. When she was stranded in London during 9/11, Francoise had time to reflect on her life. Although she had a successful career which would be more than fulfilling to your average person, it wasn't rewarding enough for Francoise. She knew that it was important for her to accomplish something more meaningful, and to help people from around the world. I interviewed her because inspiring, especially for young fashion students such as myself.
Francoise has always been inspired by her family's diverse tastes and textiles of foreign countries. She believes that through this awareness of other cultures she was able to create the idea of blending beauty with fair trade pieces. It is an effort to do more than just design clothes. Using fair trade pieces is a way to give back to communities in third world countries that desperately need assistance.
Her dream began to take shape as she went back to FIT to study fashion design, and interned for Nanette Lepore and Kate Spade. During this time, she attended a march for women's rights in Washington D.C with her mother and their neighbor, Rosanne. As she was explaining her fair trade ideas to Rosanne, she replied with 'You are about to meet some of the most influential women in the world'. Francoise was unaware of the help she was about to receive. When she arrived at the global conference, she stood up and shared her mission. The women responded with immensely positive feedback and they helped her make contacts with NGOs (Non Governmental Organizations around the world). After receiving her first bonus from a fashion show, rather than treating herself to a fancy dinner, she bought her first plane ticket to Guatemala. This was the start of a lasting relationship with these women.
The NGOs helped her to plan everything out and over time she learned how to work with the communities so that everyone benefits. There is a balance within the villages, and it is important to not upset this by over or under paying for work. The NGO helped her to establish factors such as fair minimum wage prices that will not upset this balance. The textile work that they do is on backstrap looms or foot looms, so the widths are restricted. She mainly incorporates them into her collections as trims and accents. Once she began working with Guatemala, the village helped her to connect with other villages with different products and to expand her network.
During our interview, she described the women that she works with and how employing them greatly improves their self worth and said this is the most rewarding part of her job. She works mainly with women as they are the ones who have been doing the textile crafts for generations while the men of the villages were doing woodworking,
farming or are jewelry artisans.
In cases such as Guatemala who had been fighting a civil war for 36 years, or Sri Lanka a fishing society devastated by a tsunami there have been many casualties amongst men. This makes it especially more important for the single mothers to be employed as they try to rebuild. Her pieces contain work from additional countries such as Afghanistan, Argentina, Cambodia, Ghana, and Mexico.
Francoise's designs are not only fair trade, but they are also organic. She described that there are different shades of green, but that all of her designs are 100% organic, beginning from the raw materials, and through the dying and finishing processes. She also produces her collection locally in NYC's Garment District, as she is a fighter in the effort to preserve it.
I asked her for advice to young designers wanting to work in the organic market yet have limited funds. Apparently organic jersey is the cheapest fabric and it is also extremely versatile. Another pointer was to start small and create a collection that has limited pieces yet a clear perspective. She believes that the most important part of being a designer is to find your voice. It is also
important to feel confident and comfortable in your own skin and to be able to withstand being critiqued.
For Francoise Olivas, she looked to fill a niche in the market to combine beautiful garments with ethical practices. She wanted her pieces to tell a story and now she sees two, from the woman wearing it and the women who helped to create it. Can you be proud of the history behind your outfit?
by Caitlin Kane
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